Archive for March, 2008

Our “rest day”

Okay.. I bit the bullet and decided to pay the 10 rupees a minute to do some interneting.  I have some time to kill between now and dinner.  You really shouldn’t hear from us for a couple days after today.

Today was our “rest day” in Namche.  That doesn’t mean we rested though.. instead, we had to wake up at 6am, have breakfast and hike for a couple hours.  Do I sound a little bitter?  Yah, maybe :P   I suppose it’s all good for acclimitization but it doesn’t mean that we have to like it.  We first hiked up to the park visitor center and walked around the museum.  We then hiked down to a Sherpa museum where we took a look at a typical Sherpa home.  Following that, we hiked down and back up 1000 feet on a sketchy trail up to a helicopter landing area.  Then, hiked back down to Namche.  By then it was about 11:30 and time for lunch.  The lodge we’re staying at has hot water.. it was incredible.  Truly incredible to take a shower with hot water.  Later in the afternoon we wandered down into the local market and did some basic shopping.. toilet paper, carabiners, mittens, etc..  Why the carabiners?  Turns out that I’ve had to employ two gross little towels.. one pee towel and one snot towel (too much information?).  I needed something to hang them from on my pack so I didn’t have to stuff them in my pocket… hehe.. yes, we’ve gotten to that point where grossness doesn’t matter and we all kinda stink.

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The trek has begun!

We’re baaaack!!!!!!  Sorry we disappeared for the last couple days.  Internet access has been spotty at best.  We’re currently at 11,300 feet on our Everest base camp trek.. and it’s costing us 10 NRS / minute, so please excuse the brevity.  Here’s a quick rundown of the past couple days.

Holi
Holi is a big holiday in India celebrating equality of people.  It’s celebrated by throwing color and water at each other and just having fun.  We were lucky to be around to witness and partake in this holiday.  The neighbourhood near the hotel we stayed at managed to cover all of us from head to toe in color.   Seemed like the foreigners were fair game so long as you showed some sort of interest, ie taking out a camera, watching, or making eye contact.  It was a LOT of fun.. especially when we retaliated by filling a bucket with water balloons and throwing them back!  Dennis got ambushed and was dancing with the kids in a nearby alleyway.  We have a video.  Expect it on youtube in the near future.. hehe :)   We also met up with our friend, Ric, from Seattle and soaked him color too.  All in all, it was a truly fun and spontaneous day.

The trek
We have 5 people in our group:  Brian, Dennis, Mira, Mike (from North Carolina), and John (from Lousiana).  We’re supported by a guide, an assistant guide, and three porters.  In total, the trek is 20 days, starting from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp.  Our final altitude will be ~18,000 feet.  The trek is difficult, but we’re optimistic.

Kathmandu (~5,000 feet)
We spent 2 days in Kathmandu, did some sight seeing and shopping.  This was primarily meant for aclimitization before the trek began.

Kathmandu to Lukla (~9,300 feet)
We flew into Lukla in the tiniest plane I’ve ever been on.. basically it held 12 people and everyone had a window seat.  We had some breathtaking views of the Himalayas and caught our first glimpse of Everest.  We had heard a lot about the dramatic landing at Lukla.  It turns out that it’s extremely difficult to find a long flat spot for a runway.  So we landed on a shortened, sloped runway.  When we landed it looked like we were about to hit the mountains.. but the upward slope of the runway helped slow the plan down so we landed safely.  From Lukla we hiked down a few hours to Phakding were we stayed the night.  We’ve had a lot of fun teasing Dennis over his fear of heights.. particularly when traversing the various high suspension bridges.  Brian and I have tried to shake the bridge a few times.. just to give the old man something to talk about :)

Today: Phakding to Namche (~11,300 feet)
Today was a tough day.  It started with a fairly easy hike from Phakding to Monjo (about 2 hours) but Monjo to Namche was a killer.  Imagine 3.5 hrs of steep incline similar to Mt Si, but at 11,000 feet.  In total we covered 3000 feet and are extremely tired.  Tomorrow is a rest day which means that we hike 1,200 feet which will help us deal with the altitude. 

We have 14 more days to go and it’s unlikely  that you’ll hear from us over those days.  Hopefully the next post will be one of success!  On a side note, this hike means a lot to Brian and I.  We wanted to do something “tough” together.. something that would have good and bad times and challenge us physically.  As we spend 5-6 hrs a day hiking, it’s giving us an opportunity to meditate and turn inwards.  It’s amazing how much more in tune you become with your body as you watch each breath and monitor your body/mind for signs of weakness.  And the occasional farting (due to altitude of course) makes it all the more fun.. as long as you’re not walking behind Brian.  Wish us luck!

Mom Lane - thank you so much for the muffins!  We’ve been eating them every morning and it’s the one thing we can count on for food.  We’re trying to ration them so we don’t go through them too quickly :)

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Off to Delhi

Yay!!  We’re off to Delhi today.  We had talked to Dennis a few days ago and put in a request for cheese.. I can’t wait.  I’ve been eating this miserable yak-cheese for the past 17 days and am looking forward to something less gooey and more tastey.  As Brian mentioned yesterday we haven’t been doing a lot here.. I’ve been joking that we live from meal to meal.  Yesterday we sat in a restaurant for 3 hours playing rummy, drinking Fantas and killing time until dinner.  We paid one last visit to Brian’s sadhu (sadhu = holy man) last night.  The sadhus have renounced all possessions (including their names) and live as nomads from one city to another.  In the US we’d call them homeless, but here they’re holy and treated with respect.  They were very intrigued by us and wanted to know where we were from, what we thought of India, where we were going, etc etc.. They also liked Hilary better than Obama.. lol.. I wouldn’t be surprised if we came back in a few years and saw them sitting in the same spot next to the chai stall.

We found out yesterday that we’ll be in Delhi for Holi (a huge festival of colors) so we’re hoping to partake in the color throwing.  On the 23rd we depart for Kathmandu.  I’m looking forward to a change in scenary.  As fun as India has been over the past 6 weeks, we’re ready to move onto our next adventure. 

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Time to Go

Sorry we’ve been so quiet of late.  This partiular portion of our trip, spent in a different part of Rishikesh, has been pretty uneventful.  Well, except for our rafting trip :)   Mira has been a bit sick of tummy for almost a week, and it’s becoming oven-like for most of each day.  To top it off, this week has really been about turning inside ourselves, quite rewarding for us but not very exciting for a blog reader.  The next portion of our trip. a trek to Everest Base Camp in Nepal, will surely be more blogable, if that’s even a word.

Tomorrow morning we shove off for Delhi, where we are due to arrive just before Dennis.  From there, we’ll have two days to bum around Delhi before flying to Kathmandhu to begin our trek.   I’m very much looking forward to some chicken and a beer after 2.5 weeks in this holy yet dry and veg town!

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Rafting on the Ganga

At the spur of the moment we decided to go for a 20km rafting trip along the Ganga river.  I have to say, I think it was the best $10 we’ve ever spent.  It was supposed to start at 9:30am.. and in typical Indian fashion it started at 11:00am instead.  We’ve had to recalibrate IST (indian-standard-time) here as no one seems to be in a rush to do anything.  After driving north of Luxshmun Jhula for 45mins we arrived at our drop spot.  Received minimal instructions: paddle forward, paddle backwards, drop in, etc…  We were part of a larger group of Indian students from IIT.. prior to getting into the raft, the Indians pulled out snacks and a cake and had a small food break.  It reminded me of the dragon boating crew in Seattle.. paddling was always secondary to food :)

We weren’t really sure what to expect since we hadn’t seen any rapids whatsoever from the 2 bridges in Rishkesh… and anytime we saw a raft float by no one seemed to be doing anything (including paddling).  Turns out there there *are* some decent rapids, they’re just north of Luxshmun Jhula.  I was actually surprised at the size of the rapids.. it was so much fun!  At one calm point in the river our guide yelled “everyone out!”… I thought to myself “where?”.. he meant, jump out, it’s time to swim along the raft.  The Ganges isn’t exactly the warmest river, so it took a while to get used to the temperature.  Further down the river we came across some small cliffs (~20 feet) and were told to jump off them and into the river.  I had never done anything like that.  I waited for Brian to jump to make sure it was ok, then something in my head said “do it”.. and my body just ran off the cliff and jumped in the water.  It was so cool! 

In total, we spent about 3 hours rafting and I have to say it was definitely a memorable experience.  I never expected us to go rafting during our trip and it’s all the more special that it was on the Ganges.  For those of you worried that we spent so much time immersed in potentially toxic water, don’t worry.  The water is surprisingly clean up here.. I think it’s south of Rishikesh that it starts to get filthy with everyone dumping garbage into the river. 

On a different note, our friend Andy from Project Why has joined us for a few days.  As always, our plans will revolve around food.  We’ll probably wander over to Swarg Ashram to visit our favourite restaurant and eat their special Thali #2 for lunch, then get some Italian food later in the evening.  We’re also thinking of going into Haridwar and checking out a hilltop temple.. there’s apparently a cable car that takes you up to the temple and it looks neat. 

Yoga is on hold for today.. we needed a little break.. but we’ll probably pick it up again tomorrow once we find a good class in this area.

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Karma Strikes Back

Namaste!

I had written a post yesterday imploring people to drop out of life and travel.  I have been having such a great time, I wanted everyone to experience the same joy.  I posted without re-reading it, and thought nothing of it.  Mira, however, was a bit perturbed at the post, as it was in generlly bad form to taunt people with unrealisitic ideas.  If people want to travel, they will travel!  They don’t need my hounding.  She was right.

Immediately after posting that piece of poo, bad things a started to happen.  We were kicked out of our hotel in favor of a large tour group.  Curiously, though, people were checking in as we were being told this.  We then spent the better part of the day trying to find a suitable landing spot in our little area, and were forced to settle on a pretty dingy establishment.  Cost = $5 per day.  We quickly came to the realization that we weren’t going to be able to spend a week there, and had to hoof it 30 minutes to another part of town to find something halfway decent.  To top it off, right as we were leaving with all of our stuff to re-walk the 30 minutes, it started to rain.  This was pretty curious, as we had not seen any weather but bright sunshine in the previous 5 weeks.  We paid our penance by sloshing through mud and poop puddles, in the dark, in the rain, with all of our gear. 

I deleted the offensive post on the way.  Since then, we have settled comfortably into our new hotel, and the sun has returned.  Coincidence??????  Lesson learned!

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Interested in giving?

I know that a lot of people are interested in giving but it’s often difficult to decide where to donate.  You’re never quite sure if your money will reach the people and what your impact will be.  Here are two organizations in India that we’ve personally witnessed having a positive impact on children in India. 

BIG DISCLAIMER - these organizations do not have 501(c)3 status in the US so you will not be able to deduct your donation from your taxes.  For those of you at Microsoft, you will not be able to obtain a match from MS.

Parmarth Niketan
website:  http://www.parmarth.com/gurukul.html , http://www.parmarth.com/how_you_can_help.html
Parmarth operates an orphanage /gurukul in Rishikesh where 100 young boys live and study.  These are children that have been abandoned by their parents, found roaming the streets and have been taken in by the ashram.   We’ve personally witnessed these children running around the ashram, bright-eyed and filled with purpose. 

Project Why
website: http://www.projectwhy.org/support.htm , http://projectwhy.blogspot.com
We’ve written quite a bit about Project Why already.  It’s a New Delhi based non-profit organization engaged in education support and life skill enhancement of slum children and their families.  We’ve visited all of the classrooms and the women’s center and have seen the many women and children who have been positively impacted by this organization. 

I read an article by Vimala Thakar the other day which struck me as still being relevant.. here’s an excerpt:

“The world today forces us to accept, at least intellectually, our oneness, our interrelatedness. And more and more people are awakening to the urgency of arresting the accelerating madness around us. As yet, however, our ways of responding are superficial, unequal to the complexities of the challenge. We do not take or even consider actions that threaten our security or alter our habitual ways of drifting through life. If we continue to live carelessly, indifferently, emphasizing private gain and personal indulgence, we are essentially opting for the suicide of humanity.”

Have a wonderful day :)

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Pictures of Rishikesh

Not taken by us.. but in case you’re wondering what Rishikesh is like, here are some pics from the Parmarth Ashram website:

http://www.parmarth.com/gallery-ashram.html
http://www.parmarth.com/gallery-ganga.html
http://www.parmarth.com/gallery-aarti-yagna.html

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Whoops

I missed an important point in my last post, perhaps the most important.  While I personally have chosen a different path, I don’t believe Christianity to be bad at all.  For many, many people, it provides a foundation of existence, moral and spiritual guidance.  And that’s a very good thing indeed!

In the department of “the more you know, the more you don’t know anything”… one of the primary problems I’ve had with Christianity all along is the continuous desire to evangelize.  Why do you need to save people?  Can’t you just be content with your own relationship with God?  Well, ironically, I’ve become a bit of an evangelist myself, for the yogic path!  It’s hard NOT to sell people on yoga, given how much it’s done for me personally.  Guess I’ll have a side of crow with my lunch ;)

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Shout out – hey sista

Quick shout out today to my sister Sue and her husband Joey!  We’ve thought about you often since we’ve arrived here.  See you in July :)

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