Ok – so apparently we’re writing dueling posts. Some quick updates:
- Brian is MUCH better – though we’re not sure if the meds are actually doing anything. I’m suspicious of any medication that comes so cheap.
- We visited Agra yesterday and are now in Jaipur
- We’re heading to Mumbai in 2 days to hang out with my Ashit-mama (mom’s brother).. apparently his driver is picking us up from the airport (yay for not having to take a rickshaw!) and he’s hooking us up with a cell phone. I’m hoping to get some laundry done as well. I’ve been wearing the same 2 shirts for the past 2 weeks…
More details on the past couple days..
Okhla Phase I and the water truck
While Brian was sick at the Project Why house, I was able to go and visit some of the other classes. Project Why has another classroom in an area called “Okhla Phase I” – another slum on Delhi. On the way to the class we saw a water truck – these are government-run trucks that bring water to the slums. The trucks arrive every 2 days, sometimes every 3. Watching people running out of their homes with gigantic buckets and fighting over water hit me really hard. There’s no guarantee that they’re get water, no guarantee that the truck will return in 2 days, and it’s every man for himself. India is very Darwinian in that sense.. it’s a constant struggle for everything and you have to fight or you won’t survive. That image of children, women and men from the slums fighting for water is unforgettable.
Govind Puri
My next stop was the Govind Puri slums where there was another classroom. Again, you see the struggle to survive and create a better life for yourself. Shamika was telling me that originally the people in the area were very against opening a classroom there. Having their children in class meant that they weren’t able to work and help the families.
The Women’s Center – Nicola’s story
Perhaps the most heart-wrenching story I’ve heard so far has been from a conversation I had with a woman named Nicola who worked at the Women’s center. Nicola told us about her life, how she grew up in the slums, was sexually abused by her step-father, forced into prostitution by her mother to support the family, battled drug and alcohol abuse, was forced to marry a man 3x her age, raped on multiple occasions, discovered she was HIV positive, and then managed to pull herself out of that lifestyle, raise a family and help other women. She was strangely at peace with herself and everything that had happened to her. We received the abbreviated version, I don’t think I would have been able to handle hearing more.. I’ve never met someone who has been through so much.
English conversational
From 12:30-1:30 everyday Project Why has an English conversational class. I taught the class one day. The format is very open – you just talk about topics. Not sure where to start I asked the 3 students to describe the rules of Cricket and chess to me. Somehow our conversation turned to bigger topics.. the assassination of Benazir Bhutto, India and Pakistan, their opinions of the US. I was surprised at how much they respected the US. At one point I thought a fight would break out between the 3.. it was during a discussion about how to improve India. One guy suggested throwing money at the problem.. another talked about education being the solution and another talked about needing that drive to be better as a starting point. It was definitely a struggle for them to voice all of this in English. I think it made it easier for them to be able to say words to me in Hindi and have me teach them the words in English. For me, it was extremely satisfying to be able to have that conversation.
Agra
I didn’t particularly enjoy visiting Agra. Maybe it was the seat in 3rd class.. or the millions of tourists.. or the aggressive touts and hawkers. I had already seen the Taj Mahal years ago and yes, it’s impressive.. but it’s also a little sad to see such a structure alongside so much poverty. I was really really happy to leave tor Jaipur.. even though our train was 3 hours late.
Next in our plans
We met a fellow Seattleite yesterday and are going to visit some of the attractions around Jaipur with her. I’m looking forward to having a girl to shop the bazaars with!! On the 18th, we’ll take the overnight train to Mumbai and stay a couple nights at my uncle’s place. Hopefully we’ll also get a chance to see my cousin, Milan, who also lives in Mumbai.
Ciao!